Irkutsk

So I made it to Irkutsk, the third and last stop in Russia, and what an adventure it was getting here! The train was one of the most amazing things I've ever done! I had this idea of being in a compartment with Westeners/Russians drinking vodka all day, eating, playing games, but it didn't end up like that. When I got to the platform for the train I was surprised not to see any foreigners, it was just Russians there, so I ended up in a compartment full of Russians, which turned out to be a fantastic experience. There was a couple of about 50, and a lady of 35, who spoke a little English. They straight away made me some tea and gave me some food, and for the next two days, they continued to 'mother' me. They made me breakfast, lunch and dinner and made me tea all time. I guess they hadn't really spoken to a westerner before. The Russian phrase book I had came into constant use and by the end of the journey (4days 4 nights) it had been well thumbed by most of the whole carriage! As the couple left, new people arrived, and everyone on the carriage wanted to speak to me, especially the kids; they would constantly walk past, and if I wasn't busy talking to someone else, they'd be straight in asking questions or wanting to play cards. I was staring out of the window at one point admiring the scenery when one family invited me in for some tea (everyone here drinks tea, especially chai!). They made me some chai, gave me some food that their babushka (Grandmother) had made. Luckily one of their daughters could speak a fair bit of English which made things so much easier!
One guy who was a communication engineer in the military taught me how to play draughts (well I used to know but I had forgotten), and he let me wear is hat (I've got a cool picture of it, just like the hat Charlie Boorman had on in the 'Long way round'). The kids taught me how to count in Russian and how to play Russian cards, but even after hours of playing I still couldn't figure it out!
Everyone on the train was so friendly and generous. The couple that were initally in my compartment bought me a pendant to wear round my neck of St Nicklaus? to help keep me safe while I travel. Everyone who I told I was travelling the world on my own thought I was crazy, maybe I am, but the experience is priceless.

When the train eventually arrived in Irkutsk, everyone got off the train to say goodbye, take pictures with me, even the carriage attendants wanted pictures with me. I was like I was a celebrity! It felt great!

So I made it to my hostel, lovely homestay place complete with resident cat! Met some more cool people there, an English girl who is travelling back from living in Hongkong, some French and Dutch. I spent the next day hunting for my train ticket again! And again it was frustrating; poor directions sent me 2.5 miles in the wrong direction until the road ended! Eventually I made it the place but I had wasted the day looking for them. Next time I'm just gonna get them delivered! Irkutsk is just next to the the deepest lake in the world so I had to make a trip there. I got a minibus with some Swedes I met at the bus station (we couldn't get a normal bus as the tickets ran out before we were told we had to buy one beforehand! Typically Russia!) I got dropped off in the middle of a little village on the lake-side and went in search of a place to stay. After asking in two shops I was taken to a little homestay in the village. It was quite nice, clean and tidy. I dumped my stuff and headed out to see some stuff. I checked out the Ecological Museum where they had tanks of the fish you can find in the lake- Omul can only be found in the lake! I then headed up the mountain to the viewpoint to get a good look at the lake. I took some wicked pictures however I cant put any up on my blog yet. When I got back that evening I just chilled out in my room for a bit, but when I came out later on, some Russians who were also staying in the same place were eating and drinking vodka, and they invited me to join them! Again, Russian hospitality. They spoke a little English so we got by, and drank a fair bit of vodka, good stuff too!

The next day I headed down the other part of the lake-side, ate some warm smoked omul and just chilled out. On the way down I bumped into the Swedish people I got the bus with and they invited me for a sauna at their hotel with a dive into the lake (at a freezing 7C). Oh my word, that lake was so cold and after 10 seconds I couldn't feel my feet or hands, but we still did it three times as the feeling was good when you got out. We just chilled out most of the evening, drank and ate, and met the French couple who were also staying at my hostel in Irkutsk. By the time I got back to my place the Russians were at it again; vodka, fish, loads of food, and again I joined them.

Today I headed back to Irkutsk to see a few sights before I board my train to Mongolia.

Russia has been an amazing experience though difficult to communicate as no one speaks English, but I'm now ready to see some countryside out in Mongolia.

Hope all is well

Neil